YSL's New Oriental Collection: Majestic Rose and Supreme Bouquet

Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) has taken a bold step into the world of perfumery with its new Oriental Collection, a trio of fragrances designed to evoke the enchantment of the Orient. This collection comprises three distinctive eau de parfums—each encased in an opulent gold bottle and offered at an eye-watering price point, which limits their availability to a select few collectors and enthusiasts. In this article, we will explore two of the highlights from the collection, Majestic Rose, masterfully crafted by Alberto Morillas, and Supreme Bouquet, brought to life by the renowned Dominique Ropion. We will examine their compositions, olfactory transitions, and overall impressions, ultimately considering their place in the modern fragrance landscape.

Majestic Rose

A Tribute to the Queen of Flowers

Majestic Rose is a rich homage to the iconic floral, known for its beauty and complexity. Esteemed perfumer Alberto Morillas created this fragrance to evoke a journey through a rose-laden landscape. The composition features a symphony of notes that begin with fresh raspberry and bergamot, blending with the earthiness of papyrus. At the heart lies the celebrated rose, sweetened with honey and spiced with saffron and maté—an unusual yet intriguing choice in modern perfumery.

Notes and Construction

- Top Notes: Raspberry, Bergamot, Papyrus - Heart Notes: Rose, Mate, Saffron, Honey - Base Notes: Vanilla, Oud, Guaiac Wood Maté, a unique ingredient sourced from South America, contributes a distinctive tobacco and herbaceous character to the opening, setting Majestic Rose apart from other floral fragrances. This opening blend creates a captivating whirlwind of tart, sweet, and aromatic nuances that engage the senses.

First Impressions and Development

Upon application, Majestic Rose presents an unusual yet captivating mélange of notes. However, as the fragrance unfolds, it reveals an overwhelming layer of synthetic nuances, which some may find unsettling. Initial hints of dusty parchment intermingle with a representation of cheap oud, creating a dry, leathery effect. Acknowledgement of the dusty character of this fragrance prompts the fragrance enthusiast to consider a blend reminiscent of ancient libraries—delicate yet yellowed pages coated in the fragrance of syrupy rose petals and peppered hints of tea. While this journey through scent is interesting, it leads to a conclusion that may not be well-received by many. As time passes, Majestic Rose seems to dissolve into a simpler rose-oud synthesis that fails to differentiate itself amid an ocean of similar fragrances on the market. What begins as an innovative exploration gradually morphs into a generic bouquet, raising questions about its uniqueness and overall execution.

Conclusion: The Disappointment

After three arduous hours of wear, many may feel inclined to scrub Majestic Rose off their skin. Persistent synthetic components and a lack of genuine development may leave the wearer disillusioned. Rather than offering a sensory evolution, Majestic Rose appears to briskly march through familiar territory without providing the intrigue many expect from a luxury fragrance at a staggering price tag of £185 or €177 for 80 ml.

Supreme Bouquet

An Escape to an Oriental Garden

The second offering within the Oriental Collection, Supreme Bouquet, finds its inspiration in the velvety embrace of an exotic garden. Crafted by master perfumer Dominique Ropion, it opens up with fresh and sweet notes designed to captivate the wearer and transport them to an odorous paradise.

Notes and Composition

- Top Notes: Pear, Bergamot - Heart Notes: Jasmine, Tuberose, Ylang-Ylang - Base Notes: Patchouli, White Musks, Ambry Notes Supreme Bouquet showcases a tropical opening with an interplay of pear and bergamot, offering an initial burst of freshness. The heart opens into a richer tapestry of white flowers dominated by tuberose, creating a sweet but slightly heady presence.

First Impressions and Performance

Despite its promising initial notes, Supreme Bouquet disappointingly treads familiar ground. What one expects from a fragrance heralded as an exotic journey becomes a typical floral fragrance saturated with synthetic elements. As the fragrance develops, it shares similarities with countless other fruity-white floral scents available in the market, leaving a rather lukewarm impression. The transition into dry white musk paired with patchouli smothers the initial vibrance, invading the essence of the fragrance with a synthetic, chemical edge. While the scent registers a long-lasting presence—over ten hours on the skin—it might leave the wearer longing for more depth or originality. The sharpness from the musk and the synthetic nature of the perfume create an experience that is overwhelming and often reminiscent of cheap celebrity fragrances.

Conclusions: A Missed Opportunity

Ultimately, Supreme Bouquet struggles against a landscape littered with indistinct fruity floral creations. At a price point of £185 or €177 for an 80 ml bottle, it offers little justification for its expense considering there are so many alternatives available that provide a more nuanced experience.

Final Thoughts on YSL's Oriental Collection

The new Oriental Collection from YSL showcases the talent of two highly respected perfumers but ultimately falters in execution and originality. Both Majestic Rose and Supreme Bouquet promise journeys through exotic landscapes but end up repeating tropes frequently encountered in the world of synthetic fragrance. While these scents may evoke an initial intrigue, their rapid descent into familiar territory leaves much to be desired. In a fragrance market overflowing with options, consumers might be better served seeking alternatives that balance creativity, complexity, and artistry without the heavy price tag. With luxury comes expectation, and this collection has unfortunately not fulfilled them.