BDK Parfums’ Gris Charnel has garnered significant buzz across various platforms, including TikTok, thanks to its complex and intriguing scent profile. Launched in 2019 and crafted by perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui, this eau de parfum centers on notes of creamy iris, cardamom, and sandalwood. But does it truly live up to its popularity? In this article, we will delve into an in-depth analysis of Gris Charnel, exploring its components, evolution on the skin, and overall impression.
About BDK Parfums
Founded by David Benedek in Paris in 2016, BDK Parfums is an independent niche house that emphasizes creativity and exceptional quality. The brand’s mission revolves around crafting fragrances that narrate a story through scent, focusing on raw ingredients sourced from Grasse, France. Each composition aims to create a balance between various olfactory elements, resulting in unique, narrative-driven fragrances that resonate with the emotions and experiences of the wearer.
The Fragrance Profile of Gris Charnel
Gris Charnel is characterized by its diverse notes, which include:
- Top Notes: Fig, Black Tea
- Heart Notes: Cardamom, Iris Absolute
- Base Notes: Sandalwood, Bourbon Vetiver, Tonka Bean, Cistus Amber
This composition showcases a unique interplay of fruity, floral, and woody elements. While the official note list provides an overview, it's evident that individual experiences can vary dramatically due to skin chemistry, making Gris Charnel an interesting case study for fragrance enthusiasts.
First Impressions
Upon first application, Gris Charnel greets you with an overwhelming wave of black fig intertwined with a synthetic black tea aroma. The introduction of cardamom brings a spicy depth that meshes well with the powdery clarity of the iris. However, the initial experience is often dominated by an untraditional boozy element that many may find jarring. This perception is a common point of discussion among those who wear this fragrance, with reactions varying wildly based on individual skin chemistry.
The Boozy Note Debate
One of the most divisive aspects of Gris Charnel is its boozy accord. Some users detect a pronounced rum or bourbon note that overshadows the more delicate elements of the fragrance. This discrepancy raises questions about the source of the booziness and whether it originates from the bourbon vetiver or potentially from the cistus amber. Many fragrance aficionados have shared similar sentiments, noting that while they appreciate the warm, inviting essence of the fragrance, its opening can often feel disjointed and overly sweet.
Development and Longevity
Initial wear of Gris Charnel can last up to 12 hours or more depending on application. The evolution over time sees various phases:
1. The First Hour
During the first hour, the fragrance is bold and loud, primarily defined by the silky sweetness of the boozy note. Figs and black tea linger in the background while the creamy sandalwood waits to reveal itself. This contrasting explosion of scents can be perplexing; the balance between sweetness and sophistication appears skewed.
2. The Mid-Development (1.5 - 3 Hours)
As the perfume develops, the initial boozy intensity begins to retreat, allowing the sandalwood and tonka bean to come forward. The iris begins to shine through, creating a flutter of floral elements that add softness to the scent. Gradually, the fragrance morphs into a warm and creamy bouquet, combining elements of woodiness with gentle sweetness.
3. The Base Notes (After 6 Hours)
After several hours, the fragrance becomes a comforting mix of amber and soft woods. The boozy notes fade significantly, allowing the comforting features of sandalwood and iris to take the limelight. This stage transforms Gris Charnel into an inviting fragrance that feels both luxurious and cozy.
Final Thoughts
Gris Charnel’s beauty lies in its complexity and the various stages it undergoes on the skin. While the opening may deter some with its boozy punch, the heart and base reveal a refined and elegant composition that many find addictive. The iris and sandalwood create a creamy touch that, when fully realized, feels rich and enveloping. However, it is crucial to approach Gris Charnel with an understanding of your skin chemistry and personal preferences, as the experience can differ drastically from person to person.
Cost and Availability
Gris Charnel is available in a 100 ml bottle for approximately $190. Additionally, a travel-sized 10 ml version is offered for about $45, though it frequently sells out due to high demand. Fragrance enthusiasts interested in exploring this scent should consider sampling it before committing to a full-size purchase.
FAQs
Q1: Is there really a boozy note in Gris Charnel?
A1: Many wearers perceive a pronounced boozy accord, which can be influenced by individual skin chemistry. While it is not an officially listed note, the experience varies widely.
Q2: How long does Gris Charnel last?
A2: The longevity of Gris Charnel can range from 8 to 15 hours depending on the amount applied and individual body chemistry.
Q3: What are the best occasions to wear Gris Charnel?
A3: Gris Charnel is versatile and can be worn for both daytime and evening events. Its warm and enveloping nature makes it suitable for cozy settings.
Q4: Does Gris Charnel have a strong sillage?
A4: The sillage of Gris Charnel can vary based on application, with larger quantities providing a more significant scent trail. It can be quite impactful in social settings.
Q5: Where can I purchase Gris Charnel?
A5: Gris Charnel is available from various online retailers, including Luckyscent and BDK's official website. Samples are also offered at many fragrance shops.