Bois d'Ascese, a perfume crafted by the renowned Australian milliner Naomi Goodsir, draws both intrigue and contemplation from fragrance enthusiasts. Released in 2012 and created by perfumer Julien Rasquinet, this scent is often described as a captivating blend of woody, smoky, and incense notes. In this article, we will delve into the nuances and characteristics that make Bois d'Ascese a remarkable addition to any fragrance lover's collection.
The Atmospheric Introduction: A Fragrance Inspired by Nature
Picture this: twilight settles over a parched forest, where the air is thick with the scent of charred cedar and burning embers. Bois d'Ascese embodies this imagery, capturing the essence of a campsite alongside the brooding wilderness. Its aromatic profile opens with a powerful presence of smoked cade wood, an ingredient that dominates the fragrance throughout its longevity. The initial notes evoke memories of campfires, resonating with the primal warmth and intimacy of shared moments under the starry sky.
Unraveling the Composition
The scent profile of Bois d'Ascese is complex yet minimalistic, relying heavily on the interplay between smoke and earthiness. The primary notes include:
- Cade Wood: Extracted from the juniper shrub, it imparts a dark, almost tarry aroma that serves as the backbone of the fragrance.
- Incense: A prominent layer that adds a spiritual depth, invoking images of sacred spaces and quiet moments of reflection.
- Tobacco and Whisky: These notes provide a rich warmth, counterbalancing the depth of smoke with subtle sweetness.
- Cinnamon and Amber: These ingredients further enrich the fragrance, infusing it with a sense of familiarity and coziness.
From the First Whiff: A Sensory Experience
As you spray Bois d'Ascese, the initial encounter is impactful. There’s a heavy presence of charred woods, akin to a forest on the brink of flames. The smoked cade oil’s intensity is captivating but can overwhelm those who seek lighter, more floral notes. Within moments, subtle hints of tobacco emerge, resembling the lingering smell of a smoldering fire, creating a comforting yet austere atmosphere.
As the fragrance evolves, a faint sweetness begins to peek through the smoky veil. This transformation tends to take roughly ten minutes, where the aromatic profile gradually softens. The incense quality develops further, sometimes likened to myrrh's soft, soapy undertone. However, these nuances are mere whispers against the backdrop of the primary notes, maintaining the fragrance's stark allusion to a burning woodland.
The Journey Continues: Longevity and Sillage
Bois d'Ascese is well-known for its impressive longevity. On most skin types, it can last anywhere between 10 to 14 hours. While the intensity decreases over time, the essence of campfire smoke remains a prominent theme, akin to the aftermath of a night spent under the stars. The sillage, or scent trail, is moderate, allowing wearers to embrace its presence without overwhelming those around them.
Artistic Impressions: Evoking Visuals through Scent
Interestingly, Bois d'Ascese conjures images of more than just nature; it evokes fine artworks and landscapes. Many users draw parallels between the fragrance and the artistic styles of Georgia O'Keeffe and the somber tonal qualities of 17th-century Flemish art. The dryness and minimalism within the perfume reflect the barren yet striking beauty found in desert landscapes and stark portraits of solitude.
A Dual Nature: Appraisal and Critique
While many adore Bois d'Ascese for its authenticity and ruggedness, others find its minimalism rather jarring. Critics often cite its prominent smoky notes as too overwhelming, drawing comparisons to stale campfire smoke or burnt wood. The feedback has been polarized; while some praise its uniqueness and meditative quality, others feel that it lacks sophistication and depth.
Who Should Embrace Bois d'Ascese?
Bois d'Ascese is particularly resonant for individuals who cherish deeply smoky and woody fragrances. This scent doesn’t cater to floral enthusiasts or those preferring sweeter compositions; rather, it stands as a testament to the primal and austere elements of nature. It may also appeal to those with a penchant for niche perfumery, as it encapsulates a raw, avant-garde aesthetic.
Availability and Cost
Bois d'Ascese is available in a 50 ml size and retails for approximately $150 or €110. While it is not sold directly on the Naomi Goodsir website, fragrance fans can find it through select retailers such as Luckyscent and MinNewYork. For those keen on sampling, options abound through various perfume sample sites.
Conclusion: A Fragrance to Experience
In sum, Bois d'Ascese is a bold statement in the world of perfumery—a rich tapestry woven from the elements of smoke, wood, and the essence of burned offerings. Whether it captivates or repels is a subjective experience. For the brave-hearted connoisseur who revels in the wilderness' primal scents, Bois d'Ascese is not to be missed. However, for those seeking lighter, floral interpretations, it may feel too rugged or severe.
FAQs about Bois d'Ascese
- Is Bois d'Ascese unisex? Yes, Bois d'Ascese is appreciated by both men and women, though it leans toward a more masculine profile.
- How should I apply Bois d'Ascese for best results? For optimal longevity and projection, apply it to pulse points such as wrists, neck, and behind the ears.
- Can Bois d'Ascese be layered with other fragrances? Yes, layering with fresher scents or floral notes may help soften its impenetrable smokiness.
- What occasions are best for wearing Bois d'Ascese? This fragrance is suitable for evening wear, formal occasions, or special events where you want to make a statement.
- Where can I purchase Bois d'Ascese? You can find it online at Luckyscent, MinNewYork, and various European retailers.