Bortnikoff's Santa Sangre is a remarkable addition to the world of fragrance, standing as a testament to artisanal craftsmanship and dedication to authenticity. Crafted by the master perfumer Dmitry Bortnikoff along with Rajesh Balkrishnan, this scent showcases the magnificent essence of sandalwood, particularly the coveted Mysore variety. Released in 2021, each spray of Santa Sangre unveils a rich tapestry of aromas that encompass the complexity of a sandal tree while also drawing in a medley of other exquisite ingredients. As we explore the layers of this perfume, we will delve into its intricate notes, qualities, and the artistic vision behind its creation.
The Vision Behind Santa Sangre
Bortnikoff and Balkrishnan aim to transport the wearer to an aromatic paradise, blending the finest materials sourced globally. The perfume captures a multifaceted floral dream woven with deep, woody notes, inviting users into a unique sensory experience that aims to evoke peace and happiness.Craftsmanship in Every Drop
The creation of Santa Sangre is not merely about blending scents; it is an exercise in precision and artistry. *Sandalwood*, especially that from Mysore, has long been celebrated for its smooth, creamy profile. It is a core note in Santa Sangre, presenting a depth that is intricate and poetic. Beyond sandalwood, Bortnikoff incorporates a variety of essential oils, each chosen for its ability to complement and enhance the primary theme.Noteworthy Ingredients
The officially described notes of Santa Sangre unfold as follows: - Pink Grapefruit: Bursting with tartness and sweetness, it provides an vivacious opening. - Tahitian Vanilla Flower: Adds a rich, creamy sweetness that modulates the enthusiastic top notes. - Indian Jasmine Sambac: Infuses the heart with its lush floral essence, contributing a dreamy quality. - Himalayan Pink Lotus Absolute: Engenders a serene infusion that elevates the floral composition. - Thai White Lotus: Complements its pink counterpart, adding a gentle touch of elegance. - Mysore and Indonesian Sandalwood: The main base notes that ground the entire fragrance, bringing forth an enveloping warmth. - Dragon’s Blood Incense: Introduces a compelling, resinous note that evokes ancient rituals and wild landscapes. - Red Siam Benzoin: Bestows a sweet, balsamy richness that enhances the perfume's overall sweetness.The Olfactory Journey: Analyzing Santa Sangre
As we apply Santa Sangre, the initial fragrance opens with an invigorating burst of pink grapefruit, followed swiftly by the intoxicating sweetness of Tahitian vanilla flower. The combination resembles an aroma reminiscent of a nostalgic candy treat, sparking memories of carefree childhood days.The Complex Heart of the Scent
Soon, the fragrance evolves into a heart dominated by the delicate essences of jasmine and lotus. The *pink lotus absolute* introduces a unique floral character, merging its complex earthiness with a clean, almost ethereal note that recalls the tranquility of a serene pond. The addition of Dragon’s Blood incense introduces a spicy richness, offering a sense of warmth and grounding amidst the floral bouquet.The Transition to Base Notes
As Santa Sangre develops, the heart notes begin to fade, transitioning towards the luscious base where sandalwood reigns supreme. Here, the rich, creamy aspect of Mysore sandalwood emerges as a powerful yet comforting presence, melding seamlessly with Indonesian sandalwood for an amplified complexity. This portion of the scent is where the delightful melding of sweetness from red Siam benzoin and the resinous qualities of Dragon’s Blood come to life, creating a tapestry reminiscent of luxe incense wafting through an ancient temple.Personal Reflections on Santa Sangre
The experience of wearing Santa Sangre is markedly idiosyncratic. While the base notes truly shine, the initial sweet burst has sometimes drawn criticism for feeling overly candied. Though one might appreciate the modern attempt to create a gourmand aspect, it can overwhelm the delicate nuances of the sandalwood.Longevity and Sillage Considerations
Performance-wise, Santa Sangre presents a mixed bag. Users might find that the longevity on the skin tends to shorten unexpectedly. With typical application, the fragrance can settle to a mere skin scent within a few hours. While its discreet sillage may appeal to those who prefer subtlety, it may leave those craving a more pronounced presence feeling disgruntled.Fragrance Comparisons
In a market full of sandalwood-based fragrances, Santa Sangre distinguishes itself but can still invite comparisons to other offerings. Notably, fragrances like Ensar Oud's *Santal Sultan* offer intense experiences thanks to a more focused oil concentration. However, the fluid nature of Santa Sangre brings whispers of elegance rather than loud declarations.Conclusion: A Unique Offering
In the grand tapestry that is modern perfumery, Bortnikoff's Santa Sangre holds a distinct place. It celebrates the multifaceted nature of sandalwood while showcasing a blend of floral and resinous elements that guide you on an aromatic journey. While it garners both acclaim and criticism, it becomes clear that this fragrance is bold, ambitious, and ultimately a reflection of the complexities of perfumery itself. For true fragrance lovers and those captivated by the allure of sandalwood, Santa Sangre represents a unique experience worthy of exploration, inviting an interpretation that resonates deeply with those who appreciate the art of scent.What is the primary note in Santa Sangre?
The primary note in Santa Sangre is Mysore sandalwood, offering a rich, creamy foundation that characterizes the fragrance.
How long does Santa Sangre last on the skin?
Santa Sangre typically lasts around 3 to 4 hours on the skin, transitioning into a more intimate, skin-like scent.