Introduction
By Kilian, a luxurious name in the fragrance world, has made waves with its L’Oeuvre Noire collection, which showcases a range of unique scents. However, not all fragrances resonate with every wearer. This article explores two of its controversial offerings—'Straight to Heaven' and 'Love (Don't Be Shy)'—and delves into their complex characteristics, notes, and the varied reactions they incite among fragrance enthusiasts.
Understanding By Kilian
Founded by Kilian Hennessey in 2007, By Kilian has become synonymous with opulence and artistry in perfumery. The L’Oeuvre Noire collection aims to juxtapose the darker facets of fragrance with sophistication, featuring ingredients often overlooked in modern perfumery. But with intricate compositions come divisive opinions, particularly regarding specific scents that provoke strong reactions.
A Brief Overview of L’Oeuvre Noire
With the collection's ambition to delve into the deeper emotions evoked by scent, By Kilian captures a wide palette of aromas. This exploration into perfume is not merely for enjoyment; it reflects a story, a memory, or a feeling—a concept that both intrigues and perplexes wearers.
Fragrance Profiles
1. 'Straight to Heaven' (White Cristal)
'Straight to Heaven' has garnered mixed reviews, often described as a polarizing scent in the By Kilian realm. Crafted by perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur, its opening notes feature Martinican rum absolute, dried fruits, and Javanese nutmeg oil. However, the verdict on its presentation diverges significantly among users.
Notable Ingredients
- Top Notes: Martinican rum, dried fruits
- Middle Notes: Hedione, cedarwood, nutmeg
- Base Notes: Patchouli, ambergris, vanilla, white musk
First Impressions
The scent opens with a distinctive metallic, medicinal aroma reminiscent of antiseptic wipes—a shocking beginning for many. This powerful opening gives way, much later in the dry-down, to duller notes of cedarwood and whispers of rum that many anticipated but found lacking.
Community Reactions
Fragrance enthusiasts are divided on its aromatic journey. Some reviewers noted the scent’s overpowering medicinal quality, often comparing it to hospital disinfectants, rather than any boozy, seductive qualities from rum. Comments on platforms such as Fragrantica highlight this struggle between those who appreciate its unique narrative and those who find it unbearable—leading to colorful and vivid critiques.
2. 'Love (Don't Be Shy)'
'Love (Don't Be Shy)' is another flavor of controversy within the collection. Created by Calice Becker, its inspiration—a marshmallow—translates into a sugar-drenched fragrance that many describe as overwhelmingly sweet.
Fragrance Notes
- Top Notes: Bergamot, Tunisian neroli
- Middle Notes: Honeysuckle, orange flower, Egyptian jasmine
- Base Notes: Powdered sugar, vanilla, white musk
Opening Remarks
The initial burst of notes brings forth a dominant impression of neroli and caramelized sugar that some compare to a delectable yet intrusive candy. The sweetness can be both intoxicating and suffocating, creating a polarizing experience among users.
Pursuit of Sweetness
As the fragrance evolves, wearers report a transition to a much softer, powdery vanilla. However, the journey to reach this is often marred by complaints of synthetic sweetness, leading to critiques of its quality compared to cheaper, juvenile offerings. For those sensitive to overly sweet scents, this fragrance may become a quick scrub-off candidate.
The Duality of By Kilian
The L’Oeuvre Noire collection's duality—capturing both the enchanting and the disconcerting—encapsulates By Kilian’s artistry, but it also underscores the subjective nature of fragrance. While some may find a personal connection to scents like 'Straight to Heaven' or 'Love (Don't Be Shy)', others experience them as an affront to their senses.
Final Thoughts
To love or loathe these fragrances is ultimately a profoundly personal journey. When considering By Kilian's L’Oeuvre Noire collection, one must be open to exploring the depths of olfactory narrative, including the tones of both allure and aversion.
FAQs
Q1: Are By Kilian fragrances worth the price?
A1: By Kilian fragrances are positioned as luxury products, using high-quality ingredients and artistry. Whether they are worth the price is subjective and depends largely on personal preference and the desired fragrance experience.
Q2: How long do these fragrances last on the skin?
A2: Longevity can vary depending on skin type and environmental factors, but many By Kilian scents, including 'Straight to Heaven', are known for their long-lasting properties, sometimes lingering for more than 12 hours.
Q3: Are there any similar fragrances to 'Straight to Heaven' or 'Love (Don’t Be Shy)'?
A3: If you enjoy boozy scents, you might consider other offerings like Teo Cabanel's Alahine. For sweet, gourmand fragrances, look into brands like HG or Marc Jacobs' Daisy series, known for vibrant sugary profiles.