Eris Parfums is a fragrance brand founded by Barbara Herman, a revered vintage perfume expert and author of the book Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume. Launching her own line as a culmination of her extensive perfume expertise and blogging, Herman aimed to craft scents that encapsulate the daring essence of classic perfumery. Collaborating with perfumer Antoine Lie, Eris Parfums has released three distinct fragrances: Ma Bete, Belle de Jour, and Night Flower. In this article, we will explore the characteristics, evolution, and overall impressions of each scent.
Ma Bete: The Alluring Dance of Floral and Animalic Notes
Ma Bete is aptly described by the brand as “perfumed fur,” encapsulating a thrilling blend of florals and animalics. The fragrance features a rich composition of neroli, aldehydes, nutmeg, cypriol, styrax, jasmine sambac, cedarwood, patchouli, and an animalic accord. Its opening presents a lively burst of fizzy, waxy aldehydes that exude an effervescent aura. The initial flourish of neroli, reminiscent of bergamot, harmonizes beautifully with a refined floralcy that evokes a vintage, Chanel-like elegance.
The fragrance's complexity deepens over the first 30 minutes, transitioning towards a lush, more indolic jasmine intertwined with understated spice and warmth. This evolution brings to mind the essence of iconic actress Catherine Deneuve, whose embodiment of sensuality is mirrored in Ma Bete’s gradual shift from clean and prim to more daring and subversive.
As the hour progresses, the scent transforms, with floral and animalic notes intertwining to evoke memories of warm, musky fur coats steeped in years of floral perfumes. Imagine the scent of vintage luxury—yet it feels refreshingly contemporary, steering clear of excessive powderiness.
Dry Down and Longevity
The dry down of Ma Bete unveils honeyed florals combined with plush, warm fur, showcasing a sophisticated contrast between the erotic and the classic. With an intriguing longevity of up to 11 hours, the scent settles as a soft, clean plushness, making it an excellent choice for those who indulge in vintage-inspired fragrances.
Belle de Jour: A Salty, Luminous Floral Journey
Next up is Belle de Jour, which Antoine Lie described as “a study in contrasts”—a luminous floral that is salty, sexy, and dirty. With a harmonious blend of coriander, pink peppercorn, orange flower absolute, ciste, Egyptian jasmine absolute, pimento berries, cedarwood, musk, and seaweed absolute, this fragrance sets out to challenge olfactory norms.
Belle de Jour opens with a striking blend that can be overwhelming at first, thanks to a heavy dose of white musk that dominates the early stages. The floral elements are bright yet unrefined, giving way to a hint of salty oceanic notes that add texture to the fragrance. Initially reminiscent of a floral hairspray, it transitions through a phase where the bitterness of the orange blossom softens, allowing for a subtle emergence of lightly spiced cedar and a more enveloping musk.
Transformation Over Time
While the early experience may not appeal to everyone, it is in the unfolding of Belle de Jour—roughly three hours in—that it begins to gain character, evolving into a fluffier, more comforting floral arrangement. Despite its initial challenges, for fans of clean floral musk, it may serve as a pleasant companion.
Night Flower: The Dark, Seductive Floral Oriental
Finally, the trio concludes with Night Flower, introduced as a leathery floral oriental fragrance. Infusing notes of bergamot, cardamom, suede, tuberose, patchouli, tonka bean, and musk, Night Flower opens with an aromatic burst of cardamom layered over smoky leather. This captivating entrance sets the tone for a scent that intricately combines elements of spice and earthiness.
As the fragrance develops, the initially vibrant and tangy notes transition to a rich tapestry woven with deep patchouli and hints of creamy tonka. The presence of tuberose, initially sparse, reveals itself gradually, harmonizing beautifully with the patchouli and leather. By its later stages, Night Flower shines as a more nuanced approach to the typical floral oriental family.
Final Impressions
Night Flower has garnered attention for its unique character—ideal for lovers of patchouli and resinous ambers. The fragrance's allure stems from its dual nature: simultaneously comforting yet provocative, resisting categorization.
Conclusion
Eris Parfums has effectively carved its niche within the fragrance industry, offering a trio of scents that embrace the audacious spirit of bygone eras while appealing to contemporary tastes. Whether one is drawn to the classic elegance of Ma Bete, the adventurous contrast of Belle de Jour, or the seductive richness of Night Flower, each fragrance reflects a deep appreciation for the art of perfumery.
FAQs
-
What is unique about Eris Parfums?
Eris Parfums combines the expertise of vintage perfume enthusiasts with modern perfumers to create bold and daring fragrances. -
Where can I purchase the fragrances?
Eris Parfums fragrances are available on their official website and exclusive retailers like Luckyscent. -
What are the main notes in Ma Bete?
The primary notes include neroli, aldehydes, patchouli, and jasmine sambac. -
How long do the fragrances last?
Ma Bete has a longevity of up to 11 hours, while Belle de Jour and Night Flower last between 7 to 10 hours depending on application. -
Is there a sample option available?
Yes, Eris Parfums offers sampler trios for those wanting to experience multiple scents before committing to a full bottle.