Exploring the world of niche perfumes often reveals unique and unexpected scents. Among the many houses that challenge conventional fragrance aesthetics, Odin New York stands out. Launched as a men’s fashion retailer, it expanded into the realm of unisex fragrances in 2009, presenting an intriguing yet lesser-known catalog compared to more mainstream niche brands like Le Labo and L'Artisan Parfumeur. With the release of fragrances numbered like a code, each offering a different personality, the house aims to bridge the gap between design and the delicate art of scent creation. One of their more recent offerings, Number 11: Semma, invites curiosity as it claims to pay homage to tobacco—a note synonymous with warmth and nostalgia. Let's dive deeper into what this fragrance brings to the table.
The Anatomy of Odin New York's Fragrance Line
Odin New York positions itself in the niche segment of perfumery by taking creative risks and pushing boundaries within scent creation. The decision to number their fragrances is intriguing, suggesting a narrative journey through the olfactory palette. From more transparent expressions to heavier notes, each number purportedly encapsulates a distinct story or mood. However, as seen with their earlier fragrances, critiques often highlight a trend toward perfumes that are light and somewhat forgettable.A Fresh Take on a Classic Note: Tobacco
Semma, introduced late in 2013, initially sparked excitement due to its focus on tobacco. The description exudes ambition, claiming to unite notes of sweet tobacco leaf and warm myrrh with an array of spices, promising a rich olfactory experience. However, enthusiasts and sceptics alike awaited its debut, curious if it could truly deliver on such a notable component.The Composition of Semma
The fragrance features a carefully structured olfactory pyramid: - Top Notes: Warm Myrrh, Fresh Chili Pepper - Middle Notes: Cinnamon Bark, Herbaceous Clove - Base Notes: Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Sweet Tobacco These selections aim to create a rich tapestry woven from warmth, spice, and the inviting essence of tobacco. Upon first application, Semma claims to unveil a medley of distinct aromas that should captivate established fragrance lovers. However, first impressions have been mixed.Unpacking the Scent Experience
Upon application, one can expect a diverse opening characterized by unexpected subtleties. The initial impression may lean toward fresh citrus notes reminiscent of bergamot, despite them not being listed in the fragrance notes. This confusion can pique interest, but one must remain cautious as the orientation shifts rapidly.The Awakening: A Symphony of Spice
As the fragrance unfolds, the introduction of chili pepper brings an edgy twist. It injects a vibrant spark into the heart of Semma, dancing with the lush sweetness of carnation and hinting at the depth of tobacco lurking beneath. This spicy kick indeed adds a layer of excitement, transforming the sweet floral element into something less predictable.Navigating the Complexity
As the spice matures, earthy tones begin to simmer down, revealing the myrrh and tobacco notes. While the spicy edge flourishes, it seems at times to overshadow the subtler qualities within the composition. The promise of sandalwood and tonka bean being revealed is there, yet the fragrance remains a delicate whisper rather than a resounding roar.The Transition: A Journey in Stages
Semma's olfactory journey is shaped into distinct stages, each presenting a different character of the fragrance as it evolves over time.Stage One: The Fiery Opening
For about the first forty minutes, Semma often wears a crisp and spicy profile, dominated heavily by chili peppers and an overall *vibrant* quality. The unique presence of dry tobacco and gentle smoke develops but tends to remain confined to the background, rendering the overall experience a bit lightweight for those anticipating an audacious scent.Stage Two: A Smoother Transition
After the vigorous opening fades, a transition begins—a gradual evolution toward the factors less identifiably rich. The synthetic elements, namely ISO E Super or its kin Kephalis, begin to take the lead. The fragrance can feel divided, as the spicy freshness gives way to an increasingly dry and muted profile. While there may be nuances of cinnamon, the initial vivacity seems to retreat, trading the rich tapestry for an algorithmic impersonation of a rustic scent.Stage Three: The Subdued Finale
As time progresses, an elegant stillness envelops the scent. After several hours, the structure of Semma seems to unravel into a subdued, generic representation of tobacco. While the enduring notes do present an agreeable quality, the fire of the initial stages diminishes, leaving one with a somewhat predictable profile. The hazy sweetness, combined with soft woods, aims for comfort but lacks the richness to feel dynamic.The Value Proposition: Cost and Availability
Semma is priced at $165 for a 100 ml bottle, which places it at a rate comparable to other niche fragrances. Available primarily through Odin New York's site and select high-end retailers—such as Barney's—its distribution is less widespread, especially outside the United States.To Purchase or Not to Purchase?
For fragrance enthusiasts, the decision to invest in Semma might necessitate deeper contemplation. While the initial allure of chili and tobacco is compelling, the execution may leave some wishing for a more profound exploration of the notes—especially for a scent that prides itself on complexity. As mentioned, uniqueness is essential, and for those who crave deeper, fuller aromatic experiences, Semma may not entirely satisfy.Final Thoughts: A Distinctive Approach but Lacking Depth
In all fairness, Semma represents a daring attempt to blend various elements into a cohesive aroma. The file starts with excitement but eventually leads the user into less compelling territory. The initial vibrancy is captivating—credit must be given here for the unique introduction of chili pepper—but as the fragrance matures, it seems to lose some of its lustre, settling into an animated haze of simplicity. While its usage of spices provides an interesting twist, the dependence on synthetic notes leaves some fragrance lovers yearning for authenticity and richness within their scent experience. In a market flush with options, Semma may not stand out as much as it could, vying for attention amid more robust offerings.What is Semma's main fragrance note?
Semma's main fragrance note features tobacco, along with other notes like warm myrrh, chili pepper, and spices.
How long does Semma last on the skin?
Semma lasts approximately 10.5 hours, transforming throughout the wear but generally becoming a skin scent after a few hours.
Where can I purchase Odin New York fragrances?
You can purchase Odin New York fragrances directly from their website or at select retailers, including Barney's, Fellow Barber, and various stores across the U.S.