Diptyque: Oud Palao and Essences Insensées 2015
Oud Palao
Release Year: 2015 Type: Eau de Parfum Notes: Bulgarian rose, Laotian oud, Indian cypriol, Sri Lankan sandalwood, Somali frankincense, Madagascan vanilla, Spanish cistus labdanum, Indonesian patchouli. The perfume community often holds a fascination for oud, a fragrance note that exudes mystery and luxury. Diptyque's Oud Palao enters the fray as a nod to this trend, but does it stand apart in a sea of offerings? In my impression, this fragrance is essentially a collage of familiar elements: a concoction where synthetic oud mingles with a fruit-chouli mix topped with hints of floral and leather notes. The balance leans towards a sweet and smoky territory, somewhat reminiscent of Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather but lacking in originality. The straightforward blend means that while it may attract those who enjoy a typical spicy-oud leather composition, it does little to stand apart. The price tag of $145 seems reasonable compared to its contemporaries, but those looking for nuanced complexity might want to look elsewhere.Essences Insensées 2015
Release Year: 2015 Type: Limited Edition Eau de Parfum Notes: Jasmine, orange blossom flower, basil. Moving to the elixir of florals, Essences Insensées 2015 is a limited-edition piece that marries the sensuality of jasmine with the freshness of citrus. The initial impression is dominated by a rich, indolic jasmine, layered with the sweetness of orange blossom. However, the experience evolves into something that might leave some enthusiasts wanting. What starts off strong loses its way, transitioning into a soapy floral composition that feels safe rather than daring. The projected scent radiates an air of familiarity without offering depth. If you are an admirer of mainstream floral scents, this fragrance is likely to find a place on your shelf. For others, it may feel too standard, lacking the creativity one might hope for from a brand like Diptyque.Al Haramain: Najm Gold and Atifa Blanche
Najm Gold
Release Type: Attar or Concentrated Perfume Oil Notes: Bergamot, Coconut, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Musk. Enter Najm Gold, an attar that offers a sweet, tropical experience akin to autumn's candy corn, albeit with a cloyingly sweet overtone that may divide opinions. The opening is dominated by an aggressive coconut scent, joined by creamy, syrupy facets that evoke nostalgia for childhood treats. However, as the wearing progresses, the unity starts to shift into what resembles a laundry musk cloud, wherein sweetness battles with a synthetic freshness that can feel overwhelming. While this scent is a dream for enthusiasts of gourmands and sugary hints, others may be thrown off by its loudness and lack of subtlety.Atifa Blanche
Release Type: Attar or Concentrated Perfume Oil Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Geranium, Pink Pepper, Incense, Nutmeg, Tuberose, Cumin, Musk, Sandalwood, Vanilla. Releasing a myriad of notes, Atifa Blanche presents a barrage of floral, herbal, and spicy scents. Initial impressions bombard the senses with a zesty lemon and a soapy musk that could serve as an olfactory parallel to overly enthusiastic luxury detergent. The brightness of the citrus dances uncomfortably with less pleasurable synthetic undertones. The first moments hold promise of complexity, but a short while in, the various components dissolve into a jarring mix of confusion. With overly synthetic elements dominating the proceedings, it becomes less about appreciating the nuances of the fragrance and more about escaping its grasp. As the scent lingers, it becomes almost intrusive, leaving little room for enjoyment or subtlety.A Lab on Fire: Mon Musc à Moi
Release Year: 2015 Type: Eau de Parfum Notes: Bergamot, Peach Blossom, Rose, Heliotrope, Musk, Toffee, Amber, White Woods, Vanilla, Tonka Bean. Created by renowned perfumer Dominique Ropion, Mon Musc à Moi carries with it expectations. Yet instead of presenting an innovative fragrance, it evokes a commonality found in many celebrity perfumes—syrupy florals melded with sugary accords. The blend shows promise initially but ultimately succumbs to a lack of depth and character. Instead of thrilling complexity, one is presented with what feels like a flanker of a flanker, coasting on a wave of mainstream familiarity. While Ropion is celebrated for his artistry, this composition feels like a missed opportunity to explore a signature scent that speaks with individuality.Etat Libre d’Orange: Remarkable People
Release Year: 2015 Type: Eau de Parfum Notes: Grapefruit, Champagne Accord, Cardamom, Jasmine, Curry, Black Pepper, Labdanum, Sandalwood, Lorenox. In a world saturated with floral and creamy compositions, Remarkable People emerges with an ambitious note list. However, the execution could be described as unremarkable. What opens with hints of bright citrus and fizzy champagne soon morphs into a generic floral and musky blend. Elements of peppery spice intermingle awkwardly with soft jasmine, but rather than weaving a story, they create a blend that feels utilitarian. The layering of synthetic elements detracts from experiencing genuine warmth and complexity, leaving behind a flat impression lacking in personality.Final Observations
This year has seen an avalanche of new fragrances, yet many fail to capture the heart of true innovation. From Diptyque’s attempts to ride the oud wave to Al Haramain’s overly sweet offerings, the current landscape seems to favor safe, commercially viable choices over artistic expression. For true fragrance lovers seeking unique experiences, the challenge lies in filtering through the haze of mass-produced scents to find true artistry in perfumery. As the holiday season beckons with its usual rush, it remains to be seen how the fragrance market will evolve in the new year. For now, discerning perfume enthusiasts might do well to approach the 2015 releases with caution, focusing on the quality and character in scent rather than sheer novelty.What are the standout features of Diptyque's Oud Palao?
Oud Palao blends rose and oud with sweet, jammy patchouli, resulting in a scent that is dark and leather-heavy, but it lacks originality compared to other oud fragrances.
How does Al Haramain's Najm Gold differ from its competitors?
Najm Gold presents a unique candy corn-like sweetness with intense coconut notes, appealing to gourmands but may overwhelm those sensitive to cloying fragrances.