Introduction to La Religieuse
Serge Lutens has once again captivated the fragrance world with his recent release, La Religieuse, which debuted in Paris's enchanting atmosphere in early February. Marketed primarily as a jasmine fragrance, this scent offers an intriguing blend that transcends traditional floral interpretations. The name La Religieuse, translating to The Nun in French, hints at a sense of purity and spirituality that is mirrored in its composition.
The Evocative Essence of 'Snow'
In Lutens' own words, the fragrance begins with an imagery of “snow,” a term he uses to describe the perfume's initial icy and crystalline profile. This metaphorical interpretation effectively sets the tone for a fragrance that promises sophistication wrapped in simplicity. However, jasmine enthusiasts should prepare for a scent that, while it incorporates jasmine, diverges from the classic soliflores like A La Nuit and Sarrasins.
Understanding the Composition
Created in collaboration with Christopher Sheldrake, La Religieuse is categorized within the Haute Concentration eau de parfums, indicating its luxurious formulation. The note breakdown, though not explicitly defined by Lutens, generally includes jasmine, incense, civet, musk, and chrysanthemum. However, the scent's composition unveils a narrative that is much more complex than the sum of its parts.
First Impressions
Upon application, those expecting a straightforward jasmine fragrance may be surprised. While jasmine is present, the opening notes evoke a vibrant mix of floralcy accompanied by a clean synthetic civet and a sharp citrus, reminiscent of bergamot. The striking lemony profile adds an unexpected twist, leading some to liken the opening to a bouquet frozen in time, or as the author poetically describes, “a florist’s fridge.”
The Transformation Over Time
The first hour of wear presents a largely linear scent profile, dominated by cool florals. Initially, the lemony and icy notes may seem harsh, but as the fragrance develops into its heart, an ethereal blend of chrysanthemums and Casablanca lilies emerges. The jasmine, while present, becomes less prominent, often overshadowed by the other floral elements.
A Journey Towards Warmth
As La Religieuse transitions, the icy façade begins to thaw, revealing a softer, creamier base characterized by Cashmerean wood. The fragrance evolves into a whispering floral experience that, while still maintaining its clean and airy nature, becomes more approachable and less jarring. This gradual warming of the scent marks a shift from its cold beginning to a more inviting floral elegance.
The Overall Experience
La Religieuse, overall, feels like a study in contrasts—of warmth and cold, softness and sharpness. While some may find the initial harshness off-putting, many will appreciate the intricate layering and transformation the fragrance undergoes. Its strength lies not in complexity but in its ability to evoke a serene, almost meditative ambiance.
Longevity and Projection
Despite its categorized concentration, users have noted a relatively modest longevity and sillage. Testing indicated that while the fragrance lasts around 7.5 hours on the skin, its projection may leave wearers seeking more, as it shifts into a more intimate skin scent after the initial hour.
Concluding Thoughts
With La Religieuse, Serge Lutens has crafted a fragrance that is both delicate and layered, presenting a modern take on the jasmine soliflore. While it may not satisfy every jasmine purist's desire for richness and depth, its unique representation of floral notes intertwined with synthetic accents offers a wearable yet elusive quality.
Where to Find La Religieuse
La Religieuse is available for approximately €105 or $150 for a 50 ml bottle. Various retailers, including Twisted Lily and Luckyscent, stock the perfume, offering samples for those looking to test before committing to a full-sized bottle.
FAQ
What are the standout notes in La Religieuse?
The key notes include jasmine, incense, civet, musk, and chrysanthemum, with a potent presence of citrus notes in the opening.
How long does La Religieuse last?
La Religieuse has an average longevity of around 6.5 to 7.5 hours, depending on skin chemistry and application method.
Is La Religieuse suitable for all seasons?
Its icy floral character makes it especially appealing for spring and summer wear, though some may find its freshness suitable for year-round use.
Can I find samples of La Religieuse?
Yes, retailers such as Surrender to Chance offer samples for purchase, allowing you to test the fragrance before investing in a full bottle.
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