Explore Noir Tropical and Exultat by Maria Candida Gentile

As the world of perfumery continues to expand, Italian fragrance houses like Maria Candida Gentile (MCG) have emerged, captivating enthusiasts with their unique offerings. Founded by the illustrious Maria Candida Gentile, who holds the distinguished title of Maitre Parfumeur, this house presents a blend of artistry and tradition. My recent exploration of MCG's Classic Collection led me to two fragrances: Noir Tropical and Exultat. In this article, I will share my insights on these scents, detailing their compositions, impressions, and the overall experience of wearing them.

Exploring Noir Tropical

Introduction to Noir Tropical

Launched in 2013, Noir Tropical is classified as a gourmand oriental vanilla fragrance. MCG describes this scent as the embodiment of femininity, likening it to a femme fatale in a film noir backdrop set in the South Seas. With key notes of bergamot, almond accord, vanilla, and rum, it promises an intriguing olfactory experience.

First Impressions

Upon the initial spray, Noir Tropical immediately unfolds with a delectable mix of boozy rum, warm vanilla, and rich woods. The scent is deep and complex, leaving behind a hint of bitterness that balances its sweetness. The vanilla here is adult and refined, diverging from the typical sugary connotations often associated with vanilla fragrances. Instead, it feels more sophisticated and nuanced thanks to the presence of dry wood notes, which lend an air of maturity.

The Evolution of the Scent

As seconds tick by, the fragrance shifts, gradually revealing a linear aroma that is mostly woody with a whisk of creamy vanilla. The almond note, which initially dazzles, slowly recedes, and the boozy element seems to hide, allowing the scent to become woodier. Within about thirty minutes, this fragrance has morphed into an earthy, dark vanilla and wood scent, echoing the depths of a tropical forest.

Critique of Noir Tropical

While there’s beauty in the fragrance's layered complexity, I find that once it settles, Noir Tropical feels somewhat flat. Although the scent starts rich, it lacks the vitality I look for within a perfume. Instead of an energizing scent experience, I felt a certain staleness and hollow quality enveloping it, rendering the journey predictable rather than exhilarating. It clings to the skin like a desolate whisper, which is not what I seek in a fragrance.

Diving into Exultat

Understanding Exultat

Exultat, released in 2009, carries a classification of Woody Aromatic Citrus. Inspired by an experience within the Church of Saint Lorence during Vespers, this scent seeks to blend the spiritual with the tangible—that which is holy with the everyday. With a note composition that includes lime, Brazilian bitter orange, and Somali incense, Exultat aims to craft a unique olfactory narrative.

The Opening Notes

Upon my first encounter with Exultat, I was struck by a sharp and cool opening dominated by a metallic and incense-like quality. There’s an unexpected sweetness, reminiscent of caramel and toasted hazelnuts, that mingles with a bitter lime bitterness. However, the lime quickly overpowers the other notes, introducing a more abstract and nebulous olfactory profile that strays from the richness I had expected.

Unveiling the Middle Notes

As Exultat progresses, a transformation becomes apparent—what was once a warm caramel infusion fades into a harsh and synthetic violet scent. The incense previously present is quickly overshadowed by an increasingly bitter lime note, leading to a frustrating aromatic experience. The balance once held delicately in craftsman’s hands seems to dissolve as the violet becomes piercing, creating an overly sharp and unharmonious scent.

Overall Impression of Exultat

In stark contrast to my journey with Noir Tropical, the experience of wearing Exultat elicited feelings of loathing rather than indifference. While some may revel in its uniqueness, I found that this fragrance lacked depth and warmth, feeling instead aggressive and unkind. The combination of metallic and bitter lime with fragmentary incense left an unpleasant aftertaste, making it difficult to appreciate the artistry behind it.

The Takeaways from My Experience

Both Noir Tropical and Exultat prompted intriguing reactions and critiques, reflecting the subjective nature of fragrance experiences. While Noir Tropical offered mild interest yet felt flat, Exultat delivered a less favorable response, evoking strong negative emotions. Each scent’s nuance and evolution showcased the intricate dance between olfactory notes, yet not all fragrances resonate uniformly with every wearer.

Final Thoughts and Availability

Maria Candida Gentile’s fragrances are a vivid testament to the vast world of scent and its ability to evoke diverse experiences. Both Noir Tropical and Exultat can be found in a range of options on various platforms, typically priced around $185 for a 100 ml bottle. Despite their contrasting impressions, these fragrances are a testament to the rich tradition of Italian perfumery.