Les Indémodables Fragrances Fougère Emeraude Cuir de Chine Review

Les Indémodables is a unique fragrance house that aims to revive the artistry of perfumery with each of its offerings. This article delves into two distinct perfumes from the Fougère Emeraude and Cuir de Chine. While both fragrances exhibit craftsmanship and a dedication to quality, they each present unique scent profiles and structural compositions that might appeal to different preferences among fragrance aficionados.

Understanding Fougère Emeraude

Defining Fougère: A Brief Overview

The term "fougère," derived from the French word for "fern," refers to a particular olfactory family in perfumery that typically includes a combination of aromatic herbs, flowers, and earthy notes. Characteristically, a fougère fragrance opens with fresh, sweet top notes—most commonly featuring lavender—and evolves into deeper, woodsy base notes such as oakmoss and coumarin, evoking a sense of nature and tranquility. This fragrance family has long been associated with masculine perfumes, although recent trends have seen a broader application across genders.

Fougère Emeraude: A Close Examination

Fougère Emeraude, launched in 2016 and crafted by perfumer Florence Fouillet Dubois, strays from traditional fougère compositions. While the fragrance is labeled a fougère, it possesses more of an aromatic floral quality, leading to debate among enthusiasts about its classification. In particular, the presence of tuberose commands attention, overshadowing the faint lavender and tonka bean that typically characterize a fougère.

Composition and Notes

Fougère Emeraude opens with prominent tuberose that carries a sweet, creamy aroma, complemented by the fresh greenness of clary sage. Within moments, the lavender enters the blend, bringing density to the floral tapestry. The fragrance also features notes of mimosa and an underlying warmth from the vanilla, creating a complex bouquet that diverts from conventional expectations. However, it is essential to note that the scent’s traditional elements—such as oakmoss or geranium—are noticeably absent, making the "fougère" label somewhat misleading.

Fragrance Evolution

As the fragrance develops over time, the initial sweetness gives way to a softer, more nuanced character. In the early hours, the tuberose continues to dominate, creating a lush, floral presence that many will either love or find excessive. Despite the vibrant floral notes, an unexpected gourmand undertone begins to emerge around two hours in, wrapping the scent in a warm, inviting sweetness akin to crème brûlée. By the end of its lifespan, which spans nearly thirteen and a half hours, the fragrance transitions into a more simplified and vanillic state, losing much of the floral complexity that characterized its early hours.

Cuir de Chine: A Fragrant Exploration

Defining Cuir de Chine’s Essence

Cuir de Chine, also created by Florence Fouillet Dubois and released concurrently with Fougère Emeraude in 2016, represents a different olfactory experience. This fragrance is characterized as a fruity leather, capturing a distinct profile that marries the richness of leather with sweet fruitiness. Unlike Fougère Emeraude, Cuir de Chine maintains a more linear exploration of its component notes, which becomes especially clear upon its application.

Composition Overview

Upon initial application, Cuir de Chine greets the senses with an explosion of juicy, ripe fruits, predominantly osmanthus, reminiscent of apricots. This note forms the backbone of the fragrance, complemented by a subtle layer of floral and smoky depth from the inclusion of jasmine and a hint of tobacco. As the scent progresses, the fruity and floral layers intertwine to reveal the warm, resinous nature of leather, skillfully separating itself from the primary fruit note.

Scent Journey

Initially, the fragrance is dominated by the osmanthus, which presents itself in various guises; it captures the essence of both unripe and ripe apricots but also introduces the floral subtleties that osmanthus is celebrated for. As Cuir de Chine evolves over the first hour, the leather notes gradually take center stage but remain in harmony with the fruitiness, creating an approachable yet complex scent profile. However, as the perfume settles into its later stages, its evolution becomes more subdued, often retreating into a skin scent that leaves traces of osmanthus and a whisper of jasmine. The overall olfactory experience consistently aligns with the initially established scent identity, reinforcing the linear character that defines Cuir de Chine.

Pricing and Availability

Both Fougère Emeraude and Cuir de Chine are available as eau de parfums in 50 ml (1.7 oz) bottles, priced at $225 or €190. Although the price point may appear high for some, it is crucial to consider the quality of ingredients utilized—particularly the premium tier of tuberose and osmanthus in each formulation. As such, both fragrances can be found at various retailers, including Luckyscent and Indigo Perfumery, which offer individual samples for those looking to explore before committing to a purchase.

Considerations for Purchase

To navigate the selection process, potential buyers are encouraged to try samples. Fragrance is undeniably personal; an individual's skin chemistry can dramatically alter the perception of a scent. While Fougère Emeraude may appeal to lovers of sweet florals and gourmand combinations, Cuir de Chine is likely to resonate with enthusiasts of fruity leathers.

Final Thoughts

Both Fougère Emeraude and Cuir de Chine illustrate Les Indémodables' aim to push the boundaries of traditional perfumery. Yet, the fragrances diverge in their interpretations of olfactory principles. Fougère Emeraude's commitment to aromatic florals presents a refreshing take on a typically masculine family, while Cuir de Chine successfully captures the synergy between fruit and leather in an accessible format. Whether one resonates more with complex florals or the simplicity of fruit-infused leathers, both fragrances provide an opportunity to explore the innovative spirit of modern perfumery.