In the ever-evolving world of perfumery, new talents are emerging, one of the most notable being Matthew Zhuk, the founder and perfumer of Ex Idolo. His debut fragrance, Thirty-Three, showcases his passion for both vintage and modern scents, offering a unique take on oud that deviates from the conventional styles we see flooding the market. With a thoughtful approach and a genuine sense of humor, Zhuk invites perfume enthusiasts to explore a rich olfactory tapestry that is as daring as it is exquisite.
The Story Behind Thirty-Three
Thirty-Three is not just a fragrance; it's a narrative crafted from remarkable ingredients. At its heart lies a vintage oud, distilled in 1980 and aged until its much-anticipated release in 2013. This particular formulation makes it a pioneer, as it's hailed as one of the first modern perfumes featuring a significant quantity of wild-harvested Chinese oud oil alongside natural Chinese rose oil. With a carefully composed blend, Thirty-Three aims to shine in a crowded oud fragrance category while maintaining a soft, velvety aura.
The Olfactory Composition
Ex Idolo describes Thirty-Three as a deep and dark unisex fragrance that has dry and cold facets. Its remarkable blend includes:
- Soft black pepper
- Candied mandarin
- Caoutchouc
- Chinese white tea
- Chinese rose
- Taif rose
- Orris
- Damascus steel
- Rare, natural vintage ouds
- Aged patchouli
- Heliotropin
Right from the start, Thirty-Three reveals a multi-faceted character, opening with a vibrant peppery kick followed by an Array of fruity, jammy roses compounded by patchouli's distinct sweetness. This unique combination is where the fragrance begins to reveal its complexity and artistry.
Contrasting Aromas and Sillage
The first impression of Thirty-Three can be astonishing, as the initial notes introduce a sharp element often compared to the industrial clang of cold, frosted steel, indicative of its “Damascus Steel” component. This metallic freshness is surprising yet intriguing, creating a clash with the warm, sweet, and syrup-like notes of rose and patchouli, offering a distinctive and memorable introduction.
Taking Time to Adjust
With time, as the fragrance develops, some of its more jarring qualities begin to soften. The overpowering initial black pepper fades, yielding space for subtler elements. Despite this transition, many wearers may find that the strong presence of patchouli can dominate the scent, creating an intensely sweet and sometimes even discordant experience.
The Drydown and Final Thoughts
As the hours pass, Thirty-Three eventually settles into its final drydown phase, where the prominent notes transition into a sheer whisper of powdery rose blended with a hint of soapiness. This evolved state, while pleasant to some, might disappoint those seeking a robust oud fragrance. Instead, it presents itself as a soft, feminine interpretation of oud that caters to those who appreciate elegant roses over traditional oud richness.
Target Audience and Appeal
It's important to note the nuances of personal taste when approaching Thirty-Three. While it may not resonate with every perfumer's palate, those who appreciate softer, floral, and richly layered scents may find solace in its delicate complexity. Its appeal leans towards women, rose enthusiasts, and individuals who seek a gentler, refined, and innovative approach to oud fragrances.
Price and Availability
Thirty-Three is available exclusively as a 30 ml Eau de Parfum, priced at $120. Customers in the U.S. can find it at retailers like Luckyscent and Twisted Lily, while Canadian buyers may explore options at Etiket. For those in the U.K., options are available at Roullier White. Samples are widely distributed across several platforms, enabling potential buyers to delve into the scent before committing to a full-sized bottle.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What makes Thirty-Three different from other oud fragrances?
Thirty-Three stands out due to its gentle yet complex profile, utilizing a vintage oud and natural rose oils to create a softer fragrance as opposed to the more robust and intense ouds typically found on the market.
Is Thirty-Three suitable for both men and women?
Yes, Thirty-Three is designed as a unisex fragrance, appealing to anyone who appreciates the nuanced balance of floral and earthy notes, although it tends to lean towards the feminine side.
How long does Thirty-Three last on the skin?
The longevity varies depending on individual skin chemistry, but it generally offers a pleasant wear time that evolves from an initial burst of intensity to a soft, powdery finish over several hours.
Where can I purchase samples of Thirty-Three?
Samples of Thirty-Three can be acquired through various online retailers such as Luckyscent, Etiket, and Surrender to Chance, allowing users to experience the fragrance firsthand before making a purchase.
Can I layer Thirty-Three with other fragrances?
Layering is possible; however, given its distinctive character, it's recommended to pair it with complementary scents that can harmonize with its floral and spicy notes rather than overpowering them.