Palissandre d’Or Fragrance Review: An Imaginary Wood Experience

Palissandre d’Or, a fragrance that captures the imagination, was introduced to the world by Aedes de Venustas in 2015. Created by the renowned perfumer Alberto Morillas, this eau de parfum takes inspiration from the fragrant Indian rosewood, formally known as *Dalbergia sissoo*. However, despite this connection to the wood, Palissandre d’Or is not a direct representation of rosewood. Instead, it metaphorically encapsulates the essence of an “imaginary wood,” evoking the mystical qualities and rich history associated with rosewood without capturing its literal scent. The fragrance serves as an exploration of olfactory artistry, presenting a complex, layered experience that unfolds in the skin, much like a beautifully composed piece of music.

The Essence Behind Palissandre d’Or

A Journey into Imagination

Palissandre d’Or takes its name from the French term for rosewood, known for its historical usage in intricate carvings and serene woodlands. Morillas emphasizes a concept of fragrance as a melody rather than mere imitation of a scent. Drawing from this artistic philosophy, he aims to evoke emotions and a sense of place through abstract representation rather than straightforward scent profiles.

Composition and Notes

With Palissandre d’Or, Aedes de Venustas offers a unique concoction. Rather than relying on actual rosewood, the fragrance presents a blend of notes that evoke a deep, warm quality often associated with luxurious woods. - Top Notes: A vibrant combination featuring ambrette, which offers an alluring muskiness that flirts with rose and pear, accompanied by pink pepper, nutmeg, and coriander. - Middle Notes: The heart of the fragrance reveals the enchanting warmth of cinnamon and the unfolding richness of a rare sandalwood extract from Sri Lanka. - Base Notes: At the foundation lies a rich tapestry woven with copahu balm, patchouli, and a selection of cedar varieties—each imparting its distinct nuance. The notes are orchestrated in a way that allows them to dance harmoniously, revealing texture and character when experienced on the skin.

The Fragrance Experience

First Impressions

Upon the first application, Palissandre d’Or captivates with a spicy burst. Pink pepper emerges prominently, revealing a surprisingly fiery character, reminiscent of ginger and chili, underpinned by crisp cedar wood. This bright opening is both unexpected and energizing, defying typical expectations of a fragrance inspired by wood. As the scent begins to evolve, it becomes an intricate dance of warmth and spice. The balance of fruity and woody elements creates an inviting atmosphere, with the ambrette providing a soft, musk-like aura that almost transports one to another realm.

Mid-Development

The heart of Palissandre d’Or is an unfolding narrative. The once-dominant pink pepper begins to recede slightly, allowing the other notes to shine more fully. The aromatic warmth of cinnamon embraces the senses, while the creamy sandalwood subtly emerges. Interestingly, the sandalwood's presence feels both rich and delicate, providing comfort and familiarity amid the more vibrant spices. This phase reflects a seamless transition from energetic spice to a more intimate, enveloping embrace of warmth. The interplay of woody nuances offers a glimpse of the cedar variants, which lend a soft texture and depth, reminiscent of nature encapsulated within a charming sanctuary.

The Dry Down

As Palissandre d’Or reaches its dry down, the experience shifts into a soft yet complex mélange of aromas. The ambrox component becomes increasingly pronounced, contributing to the fragrance's layered richness. The musk brings forth an appealing skin-like quality, creating a warm ambiance that wraps around the wearer as they go about their day. The transition into the dry down phase is marked by an elegant fusion of cedar, warm spices, and ambrette that encapsulates a feeling of nostalgia while inviting the wearer to drift into an enchanting reverie.

Understanding Ambroxan

The Role of Ambroxan

Ambroxan is a key player within Palissandre d’Or's composition. It serves to amplify the warm, musky notes within the fragrance, reminiscent of ambergris's qualities. Known for its lasting power and complexity, Ambroxan creates a soft, warm aura akin to the sensation of being enveloped in a luxurious texture. Despite its synthetic origins, Ambroxan can elicit contrasting reactions among fragrance enthusiasts. While many appreciate its expansive, skin-like warmth, others find it overly potent or sharp. In Palissandre d’Or, its integration is noteworthy; it cushions the spices and woods in a manner that enhances their richness without overwhelming the composition.

Understanding Controversy

Ambroxan's widespread use has sparked discussions within the fragrance community. Some have hailed it as a modern wonder, while others criticize its synthetic nature. Respected perfumer blogs and reviews have highlighted varying reactions to Ambroxan, pointing out that treatment and combination with other notes can significantly shift how the scent is perceived. In Palissandre d’Or, it harmoniously interacts with other elements, creating a balanced experience despite its sometimes polarizing reputation.

Final Thoughts

Palissandre d’Or navigates the delicate balance between the warmth of wood, the complexity of spices, and the softness of musk, allowing wearers to engage in an olfactory journey that is captivating and full of depth. The absence of literal rosewood may initially confuse purists; however, this fragrance's artistic expression invites exploration and personal interpretation.

Price and Availability

For those enchanted by the allure of Palissandre d’Or, the fragrance is available for purchase in two sizes: a 100 ml bottle priced at $245 and a purse spray refill option containing three 0.25 oz atomizers for $110. It can be found through various retailers, including Aedes de Venustas themselves, Barney’s, and several online fragrance stores across Europe. Overall, Palissandre d’Or stands as a testament to the artistry of perfumery—where abstraction meets emotional resonance in a delightful olfactory tapestry.