The world of fragrance is both enchanting and perplexing, filled with notes that transport us across time and space. Among the numerous perfume collections available today, Penhaligon’s Trade Routes Collection stands out for its homage to the exotic spices and aromatic woods that arrived in London during the 19th century. Inspired by the rich cultural mélange brought from the Orient and the Middle East, this collection showcases two notable oud fragrances—As Sawira and Levantium. In this article, we will explore these scents more closely, analyzing their compositions, scents, and overall impressions.
The Trade Routes Collection: A Brief Overview
Penhaligon’s Trade Routes Collection draws inspiration from the bustling trade networks of the 19th century which connected London to various parts of the world. This was a time when scents were not just an accessory but a statement of luxury, featuring rare spices and precious woods that were once exclusive and expensive. The Trade Routes Collection intends to capture this essence, blending stories and fragrances that transport wearers to distant places and times.Introduction to As Sawira
As Sawira is presented as an eau de parfum, crafted by perfumer Christian de Provenzano and launched in 2015 as a limited edition. According to the fragrance house, the name pays homage to Essaouira—a coastal Moroccan city that became a key shipping port in the 19th century.Notes and Composition
The composition of As Sawira features an array of notes that include: - Bergamot - Davana - Saffron - Absinthe - Rose - Jasmine - Carnation - Clove - Cardamom - Labdanum - Amber - Oud - Myrrh - Gaiacwood - Sandalwood - Cedarwood - Patchouli - Musk - Vanilla - Maltol With such a diverse range of ingredients, one would expect a complex and rich olfactory experience. However, upon application, the fragrance reveals a different story.The Fragrance Experience
Upon first spritz, As Sawira introduces a synthetic interpretation of oud—marked by a vague spiciness where saffron offers the most clarity. Unfortunately, the initial impression feels somewhat disjointed. Other notes struggle to express themselves against this synthetic backdrop, leading to a somewhat flat experience. As the fragrance develops on the skin, it becomes increasingly elusive, lacking the depth one would anticipate from an eau de parfum. The key elements of rose and saffron start to fade, leaving behind a whisper of spiced wood. Ultimately, As Sawira transitions into a skin scent, barely detectable after a few hours, frustratingly short-lived at around four hours.Exploring Levantium
On the other hand, Levantium, another creation from Christian de Provenzano, debuted as part of the Trade Routes Collection in 2016. This scent aims to embody the robust nature of imported goods that flowed into London during the 19th century—full of spices, rum, and floral richness.Notes and Composition
Levantium features a rich tapestry of scents that includes: - Bergamot - Davana - Saffron - Absinthe - Rose - Jasmine - Violet - Clove - Cardamom - Ylang Ylang - Peach - Amber - Myrrh - Guaiacwood - Sandalwood - Cedarwood - Oud - Patchouli - Musk - Maltol - Vanilla Interestingly, Levantium’s note list nearly mirrors that of As Sawira, with the distinct additions of violet, peach, and ylang-ylang. These components supposedly enhance the fragrance's character, yet the outcome may not yield the expected complexity.The Fragrance Experience
Levantium opens explosively with a notable emphasis on the boozy warmth of davana, conjoined with the glowing infusion of saffron. The introduction sets a different tone compared to its sibling. While As Sawira feels delicate, Levantium immediately presents itself as a more intense and spicier variant. However, the synthetic quality shadows many of the notes, and while some nuances do emerge throughout the wear, Levantium ultimately lacks the original depth of Middle Eastern perfumery. The fragrance evolves slowly over its lifespan—starting robust and slowly becoming dominated by its smoky, woody facets. The conclusion remains an ambiguous blend of synthetics, the spices dwindling away to leave a mere whisper of what once was.Comparative Analysis: As Sawira vs. Levantium
Both fragrances evoke a muted palette that leads one to question the overall intent and execution of the Trade Routes Collection. While As Sawira pursues a delicate and flirty essence with floral elements, Levantium aims for a bolder, more intense presence. Surprisingly, despite each having their distinct characteristics, they often merge into a generic signature resembling the other.Performance and Longevity
One could argue that the performance aspects of both fragrances tell a crucial part of their story. As Sawira is bafflingly short-lived; despite being labeled as an eau de parfum, the wear time doesn't surpass four hours—leaving many disappointed given its price point of $200 for 100 ml. On the contrary, Levantium manages a slightly longer wear—hovering just above seven hours, yet many note its chemical harshness detracting from the appeal.Pricing and Conclusion
When it comes to pricing, As Sawira retails for $200, whereas Levantium is priced at $160. Despite their respective costs, the fragrances fail to provide a genuinely memorable experience. Enthusiasts seeking robust musky and woody curation may find themselves better served with truly authentic Middle Eastern fragrances, which often offer greater complexity and richness for far less.Final Thoughts
The overarching sentiment surrounding these scents is one of disappointment. Despite Penhaligon’s traditional credibility, this collection appears to shy away from its roots. Both As Sawira and Levantium incorporate a ghost of their inspiring elements, whereas true Middle Eastern perfumes often flourish in stillness, depth, and originality. If you're in search of diverse, rich fragrances filled with layers and potent spices, the Trade Routes Collection falls short, offering only a fleeting glimpse into an otherwise marvelous olfactory journey.What inspired the Trade Routes Collection by Penhaligon's?
The Trade Routes Collection is inspired by the exotic spices and woods that were brought to London from the Orient and Middle East during the 19th century, reflecting the rich cultural exchanges of that time.
How do As Sawira and Levantium compare in terms of fragrance composition?
Both fragrances share many similar notes, including bergamot, saffron, and rose; however, As Sawira leans towards a softer, floral experience, while Levantium is bolder and spicier. Both, however, fall prey to a synthetic quality that detracts from their potential complexity.