Exploring Santal de Mysore
The Legend of Mysore Sandalwood
Mysore sandalwood is among the most coveted woods in the world of perfumery, known for its creamy, warm, and subtly sweet scent. Historically, it was abundant in the forests of southern India, particularly in the Mysore region. However, intensive harvesting practices have severely diminished its availability, leading to its classification as a protected species. This reality has made genuine Mysore sandalwood almost exclusively accessible to high-end perfumers willing to pay a premium for this precious oil. In light of this scarcity, Santal de Mysore creatively emerges as a response, utilizing clever alternatives that replicate the beloved scent while embracing innovative notes that evoke the culinary aspects of Indian cuisine.Creation and Release
First released in the early '90s, Santal de Mysore represents a signature blend that is as much about the experience of food as it is about the iconic sandalwood note. The fragrance is classified as an *eau de parfum* and is presented in various forms, including the more commonly recognized bell jar. Serge Lutens, whose creations are often steeped in a story, claims that Santal de Mysore takes “spices to the limit,” reflecting an adventurous spirit in the realm of scent composition that celebrates the rich palette of spices typified in Indian cooking.The Scent Profile
Olfactory Notes
The layered complexity of Santal de Mysore is best understood through its multiple, sometimes surprising, olfactory notes. According to various sources, the composition includes: - Mysore sandalwood - Cumin - Various spices - Styrax balsam - Caramelized Siamese benzoin - Saffron - Cinnamon - Rosewood - Wild carrot While the exact formulation is closely guarded as a secret, the predominant theme revolves around the emotive capacity of food and its aromatic companions.First Impressions
Upon initial application, Santal de Mysore greets the wearer with a vibrant burst of spices. The spicy undertones emerge alongside a blend of curious notes reminiscent of culinary elements. The scent may evoke images of a bustling Indian kitchen where spices dance harmoniously together, creating an aromatic feast. Interestingly, elements such as a light curry note and aromatic dill seem to prevail, conjuring memories of dishes like Baghali Polo — an Iranian rice dish flavored with herbs and spices.The Culinary Connection
The notion of a perfume that embodies a plate of food may seem unusual at first; however, the human experience of scent is often heavily tied to memory and emotion. In this case, wearing Santal de Mysore may transport an individual to cherished moments shared over an Indian meal. The inclusion of spices, saffron, and even hints of cooked carrots craft a deliciously complex opening that dances like aromas wafting from a kitchen.The Evolution of Scent
As Santal de Mysore evolves on the skin, the initial vibrant spice notes transition into deeper, more nuanced qualities. The spicy, gourmand first impression mellows into a rich composition marked by sweetened leather and a dark, almost resinous quality. While some reviewers note a discordant synthetic aspect, others appreciate this as a modern take that maintains the spirit of Mysore sandalwood without compromising on the quality and experience.The Journey of Santal de Mysore
Impact on the Scent Community
Santal de Mysore has sparked a range of reactions from seasoned perfume enthusiasts. For some, the opening notes of curry or cumin can be overwhelming, leading to a perception of the fragrance leaning too heavily into the gourmand category. However, for others, the transformative journey of the scent ultimately rewards their patience, culminating in a rich, creamy woodiness reminiscent of Mysore sandalwood itself.Longevity and Sillage
The fragrance's longevity is one aspect that often draws commentary. On average, Santal de Mysore can last over ten hours on the skin, though the initial projection may soften after a period. As the scent fades, it leaves behind traces of creamy woods and subtle sweetness, inviting the wearer to explore the various layers exposed throughout the day.Conclusion: A Sensory Exploration
In essence, Santal de Mysore represents not merely a fragrance but a sensory exploration that evokes a deeper connection to Indian culinary traditions through its complex layering of spices and woods. It invites wearers to take a journey into the heart of India, highlighting the duality between nature’s gifts and the joy of cooking. While the discourse surrounding the fragrance can veer toward the polar, it stands as a testament to Serge Lutens' commitment to pushing olfactory boundaries, exploring unique combinations to evoke emotion and memory. Whether you find the enchanting embrace of spices complements your wardrobe or not, it is undeniable that this fragrance engages the senses in a unique and sophisticated manner.What are the main notes in Santal de Mysore?
The main notes in Santal de Mysore include Mysore sandalwood, cumin, various spices, styrax balsam, caramelized Siamese benzoin, saffron, cinnamon, rosewood, and wild carrot.
How long does Santal de Mysore last on the skin?
Santal de Mysore typically lasts for over ten hours on the skin, although its initial projection may soften after a few hours.