In the world of haute perfumery, few names evoke the same reverence as that of Serge Lutens, the visionary who has masterfully captured the essence of scent for decades. Among his many offerings, *Mandarine Mandarin* stands out not only for its olfactory complexity but also for the artistic craftsmanship represented by its rare, limited-edition packaging. This article delves into the enigmatic allure of *Mandarine Mandarin*, exploring its captivating notes, historical inspirations, and the fascinating conversations it sparks among perfume aficionados.
The Allure of the Dragon Bell Jar
When it comes to *Mandarine Mandarin*, many are initially drawn to its mesmerizing bottle—especially the limited-edition "Dragon" bell jar. This exquisite piece resembles a relic from Imperial China, featuring a design that evokes the splendor of ancient royalty. The extraordinary craftsmanship of the Dragon jar, coupled with the fragrance it holds, creates an unshakeable charm that captures the imagination of collectors and fragrance enthusiasts alike.A Brief Historical Context
Released in 2006, *Mandarine Mandarin* embodies the richness of *Serge Lutens’* artistic vision. This perfume draws inspiration from the intricacies of Imperial China, a period steeped in ritual and cultural significance. As perfumers constantly seek to blend scent with history, Lutens has succeeded in creating a fragrance that acts as both a sensory experience and a nod to a fascinating heritage.Behind the Creation: Christopher Sheldrake
The mastermind behind this scent is none other than the talented perfumer Christopher Sheldrake. Well-known in the fragrance world for his innovative approaches, Sheldrake has collaborated with Lutens to produce scents that challenge traditional boundaries. The combination of *Mandarine Mandarin*’s remarkable compositions and the stunning aesthetics of its packaging showcase a dedication to the craft that resonates throughout the fragrance community.Exploring the Notes of Mandarine Mandarin
What truly sets *Mandarine Mandarin* apart from the myriad of citrus fragrances available is its unique array of notes that create an intense and often surprising olfactory experience.Top Notes
Upon first application, *Mandarine Mandarin* greets the wearer with the bright sweetness of candied mandarin and orange peel, layered over a smoky backdrop of Lapsang Souchong tea. This opening is not merely a sweet introduction; it carries an intriguing tension created by the unexpected addition of herbal elements. While many fragrances may flaunt a typical citrus profile, this initial burst feels more enigmatic and complex.The Element of Surprise: A Celery Accord
One of the most discussed aspects of *Mandarine Mandarin* is the peculiar celery note that unexpectedly emerges. It is important to note that this is not the fresh, crisp scent of raw celery; instead, it evokes a more intense, cooked vegetable character reminiscent of a dish that simmered a bit too long. This surprise element, often described as “boiled” or “overcooked,” transforms the experience into something unexpectedly daring.Middle Notes: A Fascinating Complexity
As the scent progresses, the sharpness of the celery begins to meld with the sweet and spicy orange blossom, creating a dialogue between floral smoothness and herbal intrigue. The combined effect is a rich tapestry that captivates the senses. The incorporation of candied orange notes adds a layer of depth, turning the fragrance into something far more than just a simple citrus expression.Floral and Spicy Undertones
Joined by nuances of nutmeg and delicate variations of tonka bean and rose hip, the middle notes further enhance the complexity. The smoky Lapsang tea persists, tantalizing the wearer with a sense of warmth and familiarity, while the floral elements take on a spicy character that creates a uniquely seductive profile.The Evolution of the Scent
As the hours pass, *Mandarine Mandarin* undergoes an evolution marked by refinement. The robust initial burst begins to soften, allowing for a more integrated and harmonious fragrance.Transitioning to the Dry Down
By the ninety-minute mark, the scent’s raw intensity subsides, and what was once sharp transitions into a beautiful blend of orange and dark, resinous notes. The elements that once felt distinct and edgy now merge together seamlessly, creating a more cohesive experience that envelops the wearer in a gentle embrace.The Final Stages
As the scent moves towards its final moments, hints of muskiness mingle with the lingering floral notes. The overall impression shifts toward an abstract sweetness highlighted by smoky elements—giving *Mandarine Mandarin* a mysterious yet comforting aura. The notion of wearing the lingering echoes of amber, black tea, and orange blossoms becomes a gentle reminder of the fragrance's intricate journey.Reception and Controversy
Despite its artistry, *Mandarine Mandarin* is not without controversy. Among the many scents crafted by Serge Lutens, this fragrance receives mixed reviews from critics and casual wearers alike. Its odd combination of notes—particularly the vegetable-like celery—has provoked laughter and intrigue, leading to a polarizing reception.Understanding the Critiques
Notably, many reviews consider the celery note as a massive turn-off, while others embrace its unique and daring nature. Statements like “all I can smell is mandarin celery” echo through the online fragrance community. The unconventional nature of *Mandarine Mandarin* makes it a subject for discussion, as its strangeness entices some while repelling others.An Unforgettable Experience
While the fragrance may not cater to everyone’s taste, its ability to evoke strong reactions speaks volumes about the artistry of perfumery. For those willing to engage with its complex layers, *Mandarine Mandarin* offers a journey filled with sensory surprises and narrative depth.Where to Find Mandarine Mandarin
Those intrigued by *Mandarine Mandarin* can access it through various platforms, though prices may vary significantly depending on location.Availability and Price Points
The *Mandarine Mandarin* fragrance is available in a 75 ml/2.5 oz Bell Jar for $290 or €130, contingent upon the purchasing location. Those in the U.S. can directly access it from the Serge Lutens website or through authorized dealers like Barney's New York.International Access
For fragrance enthusiasts located outside of the U.S., the price is generally more favorable when purchased via the French Lutens website or the Paris boutique. There is also the opportunity to buy samples through various online retailers to explore its unique scent profile without a full commitment.Conclusion: A Fragrance that Divides and Unites
*Mandarine Mandarin* encapsulates everything that makes Serge Lutens’ perfumes compelling: artistic creativity, bold experimentation, and a connection to history. While this fragrance may not cater to traditional tastes and is certainly not for the faint-hearted, those drawn to its complexities may find themselves embarking on an unforgettable olfactory journey. For those who welcome the unexpected and relish spirited discussions about fragrance, *Mandarine Mandarin* stands as a testament to the enduring artistry of modern perfumery, prompting us to reconsider our definitions of beauty and elegance.What are the main notes in Mandarine Mandarin?
The primary notes in Mandarine Mandarin include candied mandarin, Lapsang Souchong tea, orange blossom, nutmeg, and an unusual celery note that creates a unique character.
Where can I buy Mandarine Mandarin?
Mandarine Mandarin is available on the U.S. Serge Lutens website, Barney's New York, and the French Lutens website, among other authorized retailers.