The world of niche fragrances is an ever-evolving landscape of scents that can excite, inspire, and, sometimes, disappoint. One such brand making waves is Stéphane Humbert Lucas (SHL 777), renowned for its artistic and eclectic offerings. Recently, the brand released two new fragrances: Panthea and Wish Come True. These scents, while distinct, evoke a sense of familiarity that invites both curiosity and examination. In this article, we delve into each fragrance's composition, character, and overall impression to help you navigate this fragrant journey and discover whether these latest additions to the SHL 777 lineage may resonate with your olfactory preferences.
Understanding the SHL 777 Brand
Stéphane Humbert Lucas is a multifaceted perfumer whose creations often transcend traditional boundaries. The 777 line, a testament to his artistic vision, showcases varied olfactory experiences that range from the lavishly floral to the intensely aromatic. While he is known for his ability to craft deep, luxurious scents, his recent releases have stirred debate among fragrance enthusiasts. Are Panthea and Wish Come True a true representation of his genius, or do they lean too heavily on mainstream appeal?Panthea: An Overview
Unveiled in May, Panthea is classified as an eau de parfum that initially promises a refreshing and elegant experience. With its official note list featuring ingredients like bergamot, pink pepper, tangerine, elemi, and a bouquet of florals and woods, it seems to conjure a vibrant summer's day.The Initial Impression
Upon application, Panthea opens with a vibrant burst of lemony bergamot fused with an airy cloud of jasmine. However, this jasmine does not embody the classic floral character we often anticipate. Instead, it offers a fresh and clean quality reminiscent of hedione—an aromatic compound prized for its lightness. This divergence raises questions for purists who expect natural floral accords.A Complex Floral Journey
As Panthea develops on the skin, it unfurls into a tapestry of additional notes. The spicy, fruity sweetness from pink peppercorns emerges, accompanied by shades of violet—a powdery element that seems to whisper rather than shout. The predominant note shifts to a cold, soapy iris, becoming a defining element of the scent. The interplay of these notes creates an intriguing yet polarizing experience. For some, there is a nostalgic quality akin to luxury floral soaps, while for others, it veers too far into the realm of synthetic freshness.The Soapy Undertone
Indeed, after a short period, the fragrance leans heavily towards a soapy character, drawing comparisons to classic releases such as Hermes’ Caleche, which similarly featured aldehydes and white musk. This aspect may appeal to fans of traditional floral compositions while simultaneously alienating those seeking modernity and innovation. Hence, while Panthea showcases technical prowess, it risks being trapped in the echoes of the past.Wish Come True: A Sweet Promise
Released alongside Panthea, Wish Come True carries an air of mystery with its more extended note list. With components like mandarin, ylang ylang, and a base that boasts ambergris, tuberose, and vanilla, expectations veer toward a more gourmand character.The Opening Notes
From the moment it lands on skin, Wish Come True envelops the senses with a sweet medley of tangerine and bergamot, which then unfolds into intriguing layers of ethyl maltol—an ingredient often associated with sugary confectionaries. This sweetness, while inviting to some, may become overwhelming as the fragrance evolves.A Floral Gourmand Fusion
As the scent further develops, the warm floral sweetness of ylang ylang takes center stage, infusing a creamy richness. However, this inviting quality soon dances precariously with more intense notes, like that of fermented malt beer, introducing an unexpected juxtaposition. Here, the traditional floral aspects seem to twist under the weight of sweetness, leading to a uniquely discordant element.A Cacophony of Sweetness
Perhaps the most challenging aspect of Wish Come True is its overwhelming sweetness. For enthusiasts of gourmet fragrances, this may evoke delight, while others might find it too reminiscent of fairground treats—a blend of caramel, burnt sugar, and undertones of malt beer that can easily tip into the realm of cloying. The intricate interplay of its notes invites varying reactions, from admiration to aversion, reflecting the beauty and complexity of fragrance as a subjective experience.The Dichotomy of Reception
Both Panthea and Wish Come True illustrate a distinct shift in SHL 777's approach, sparking discussions among fragrance aficionados regarding the brand's identity. While some fans may appreciate the accessibility of these fragrances, others lament the perceived loss of the house's original depth and complexity.Target Audience
It’s crucial to consider the audience that these fragrances might attract. Panthea, with its clean and fresh floral scent profile, may resonate deeply with those who have a penchant for traditional floral compositions and enjoy scents reminiscent of luxurious perfumes from decades past. On the other hand, Wish Come True appeals to gourmands and fans of sweet fragrances who revel in opulent, dessert-like aromas.The Future of the SHL 777 Line
As we analyze the impact of these recent releases on the SHL 777 brand, it’s essential to contemplate whether they signal a trend towards mainstream appeal or an exploration of new aesthetics. Whether or not these fragrances receive universal acclaim, they clearly showcase the versatility of Stéphane Humbert Lucas as a perfumer, even if they diverge significantly from the character that initially garnered his reputation.In Summary
In conclusion, Panthea and Wish Come True offer two distinct experiences that embody both promise and disappointment for different segments of the fragrance community. While Panthea may feel like an echo of the past, Wish Come True dives headfirst into the territory of modern sweetness, potentially alienating those who prefer a more balanced and nuanced scent palette. As niche perfumery continues to flourish, such explorations will undoubtedly yield conversations about artistic direction, market share, and the desires of a diverse array of fragrance lovers.What are the key notes in Panthea?
Panthea features key notes such as bergamot, pink pepper, jasmine, iris, and white musk, with additional elements like carrot, violet, and tobacco flower enhancing its floral character.
What can I expect from Wish Come True?
Wish Come True opens with a blend of tangerine and bergamot, enriched by a creamy ylang ylang and overlaid with gourmand elements like ethyl maltol, resulting in a sweet floral experience that may feel overwhelming to some.