Tola Perfumes Anbar and Gulbadan Unique Fragrance Review

In the world of perfumery, the journey from concept to creation is often as intricate and layered as the fragrances themselves. The launch of Tola Perfumes in Dubai in 2013 marked an exciting development in the olfactory landscape, thanks to its founder, Dhaher bin Dhaher. A self-taught perfumer, bin Dhaher draws from a rich background steeped in the traditions and stories of fragrance. His creations invite wearers to explore exotic compositions inspired by cultural heritage and an artistic vision unique to the Middle East. In this article, we will delve into two of Tola's intriguing fragrances: Anbar and Gulbadan, examining their unique characteristics, olfactory profiles, and overall impressions.

Tola Perfumes: An Overview

Tola Perfumes has made a name for itself by embracing both traditional and modern perfumery techniques. The brand's name originates from the ancient Indian unit of measure, which precedes the metric system. This connection to heritage is crucial, as each fragrance tells a story that resonates with the history and culture of its origins. Tola fragrances are crafted in varying concentrations, with Eau de Parfum as the more widely accessible form. The line comprises several distinctive fragrances, each embodying a unique theme and olfactory profile. Among them, Anbar and Gulbadan stand out for their particular blend of notes and the experiences they create.

Anbar: A Sensuous Journey in Fragrance

Olfactory Profile

Anbar is characterized as an amber fragrance, but its essence goes beyond this single classification. It opens with a striking combination of fruit notes, including apple, plum, strawberry, and a sparkling hint of orange. The heart reveals a warm blend featuring carnation, orris, jasmine, and a touch of cinnamon. On the base, a rich mixture of cedar, patchouli, Siam benzoin, labdanum, incense, tonka bean, vanilla, white musk, and ambergris complete the composition.

The Opening Notes

Upon application, Anbar presents an inviting bouquet of rich, boozy plums combined with mingling fruit notes. This initial intensity is enveloped in a subtle hint of sweetness, reminiscent of a honeyed rose. However, unlike many amber fragrances, Anbar does not lead with prominent incense or honey notes; rather, it introduces a gourmand-like quality, evoking the comforting essence of caramel and vanilla.

Development and Maturation

As Anbar evolves, it signals a gradual transition that deepens its intrinsic sweetness. Within less than an hour, the fruitiness becomes more pronounced, leading to a heavier, plummied molasses-like aroma. The woody notes of cedar emerge, their presence growing as the incense recedes into the background, allowing the creamy and smooth characteristics to shine. The initial caramel undertone does veer toward a heavy sweetness that, at times, feels overly cloyed. By the two-hour mark, Anbar further develops into a rounded yet opulent vanilla-amber dance with dark, stewed fruits subtly lingering in the backdrop. The interplay between warmth and sweetness creates an enchanting, comforting experience for the wearer. Over time, the fragrance softens to become almost skin-like, leaving an elusive trail rich with sweetness.

Final Impressions

In its final phase, Anbar becomes something akin to a fluffy, creamy dessert with notes reminiscent of a light flan, beautifully adorned with candied plum. Although the synthetic aspects remain, they manage to blend seamlessly with the fragrance's identity, achieving balance without diminishing its radiance. Anbar ultimately settles into a final impression of indulgence, lasting over 13 hours on the skin.

Gulbadan: A Tale of Floral Elegance

Unveiling the Fragrance

With a name translating to “with a body like a rose flower,” Gulbadan evokes imagery of romantic tales from Persian heritage. It boasts an impressive array of 27 notes, including top notes of lemon, lime, green leaves, peach, plum, apple, pineapple, and a unique twist of star anise. The lush heart contains orchid, ylang-ylang, geranium, lilac, rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, orris root, and French orange flower. Completing this bouquet are base notes that encompass cedar, patchouli, sandalwood, agarwood (oud), styrax, vetiver, oakmoss, white musk, ambergris, and vanilla.

The Unexpected Opening

The initial application of Gulbadan can be quite shocking for some. Despite its impressive note list, the scent opens with a surprising and alarming fecal note that many would find off-putting—specifically a strong resemblance to cow dung. This peculiar introduction contrasts starkly with its floral intentions and leaves a lasting impression on those who encounter it.

Transformation and Complexity

Fortunately, as the fragrance develops, the unpleasant raw notes recede. For a brief while, the overwhelming essence transforms into a more intense Big White Flower Bomb that can present its own challenges. The screeching jasmine and lily of the valley sweetness can become intolerably sharp, accompanied by sugary vanilla reminiscent of candy canes. As time passes, the dirtiness and sweetness subsides slightly, leaving behind a more complex portrayal of floral notes as they begin to immerse in the base without the disturbing opening qualities. It remains to be seen whether this evolution offers eventual redemption, as it can prove to be quite a significant journey and can overwhelm those not prepared.

Final Thoughts

In its latter stages, Gulbadan hints at floral beauty intertwined with a veneer of sweetness that is difficult for some to appreciate. Given its strong and polarizing characteristics, opinions are sharply divided. While some may find merit in the complexities and nuances of Gulbadan, others regard it as an overwhelming experience that is difficult to endure.

The Tola Perfumes Experience

Pricing and Availability

For those intrigued by either Anbar or Gulbadan, both fragrances are available exclusively in 45 ml bottles priced at $285. This pricing may deter some potential customers, especially considering the varying levels of appreciation each fragrance commands. In the U.S., Tola Perfumes can be found at Luckyscent and Osswald NY, while in the U.K., Selfridges carries the lineup. However, sample options are limited.

Summarizing the Journey

Anbar offers a decadent experience rich in enveloping vanilla and fruit notes, while Gulbadan’s wildly divergent trajectory—from fecal hints to sweet floral heights—provides an adventurous (yet disconcerting) experience. Ultimately, both fragrances reflect the artistry and spirit of Tola Perfumes, inviting wearers to explore perspectives on fragrance that extend beyond the skin.

FAQ

What type of fragrances does Tola offer?

Tola offers a range of unique fragrances that blend traditional and modern notes, focusing on deep and evocative scent stories.

Where can I purchase Tola Perfumes?

Tola fragrances are available at selected retailers in the U.S. such as Luckyscent and Osswald NY, as well as at Selfridges in the U.K.

What is the price range for Tola Perfumes?

Both Anbar and Gulbadan are priced at $285 for a 45 ml bottle.

What are the main notes in Anbar?

Anbar features

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